Salt of the Earth

By Elizabeth Bower | 09.01.2010


While woman does not live by bread alone, salt is really vital to life, it makes food taste good and can be crucial in making a recipe turn out right. But how much do you really know about salt?


Admittedly, I’m probably, an over-salter. No, really, I do use too much salt to season my food. But I only use it on my own plate. Not in my cooking.


Recent studies have shown that more women are “super tasters” than men and one way of identifying this characteristic is the amount of salt a person uses. And I use a lot. There’s something about the fact that since super tasters taste foods more strongly, salt serves as a buffer against the bitter and sour in food. Be warned though, not all “salters” are super tasters though.


Table salt, rock salt, kosher salt, sea salt, iodized, pickling, seasoned and salt substitutes; salt comes in many different forms. Other than salt substitutes, salt is sodium chloride — with some additives — and comes from either salt mines like the one in Hutchinson or from the sea.


Needed by all living creatures, salt — in small quantities — helps the body to regulate and maintain fluids, transmit nerve impulses and works to contract and relax muscles. Too much salt though, can cause health problems such as high blood pressure, kidney disease and diabetes.


Known for centuries as a preservative, salt is produced by the evaporation of seawater or brine or mined from large deposits left by ancient dried up lakes and inland seas. Until recently, the United States was the largest producer of salt in general but China has now taken over. Salt has a long and exciting history. Without its ability to preserve, it probably would have just been another condiment. Not really, but having that quality has made it invaluable in helping civilizations grow and commerce blossom. According to Wikipedia, the process of extracting salt by boiling the water and letting it evaporate has been around since the Neolithic times and the oldest established salt works has been documented in China dating back to at least 6,000 BC.


Ancient Egyptians used salt as funeral offerings in tombs, Phoenicians and Celts traded it, and Roman troops were paid with it. It has also been used in many religions. Many ancient religions offered salt to their gods as a way to invoke them and their blessings. Salt has been mentioned in the Bible many times including the tale of Lot’s wife turning into a pillar of salt. It has been added to water in the Catholic church to make holy water, used in Hindu religious housewarmings and is used for Shinto ritual purification.


So many types of salt to choose from, how do you know the right one to use when? Salting food can be a matter of taste. I like the subtle taste kosher salt brings to soups, stews and sauces but table salt added to the finished product works best for me. Although sometimes I like to add a touch of sea salt — with its coarser texture, crunch and flavor of the sea — to finish a dish.


Types of sea salts


• Hawaiian Black Lava Salt. Contains activated charcoal and is great on salads, sushi and grilled foods. Impressive on the table.


• Celtic salt. Hand-harvested from a specific region in France for more than 2,000 years, this salt has a mellow, sweet-salty taste.


• Fleur de Sel. One word: expensive! While all sea salts are harvested from the evaporation of water in shallow pools, this salt owes its being to the right combination of harvesting techniques. It must be clear, no wind and raked from the surface of the pond — only. Yields are small and the price around $25 per pound. The grains produced by this method are slightly moist, flake like, irregularly shaped and offer a different texture, taste and some say, smell. Use as a garnish only.


• Italian Sea Salt. Salt high in iodine and other minerals, it is harvested from the lower Mediterranean and is good on salads and in sauces.


• Smoked Sea Salt. Sea salt smoked over a wood fire to add flavor. Great for Pasta, grilled dishes and soups.


• Rock salt. Not as refined as other salts, rock salt comes in a lighter grey color, is composed of chunky crystals and used to make ice cream and as a base for foods cooked on a bed of salt.


• Pickling salt. A fine-grained salt with no additives that is used to pickle vegetables. The lack of additives in the brine is what keeps the pickles from turning dark and the brine cloudy.


• Seasoned salt. Garlic salt, onion salt and celery salt are examples of salt combined with other flavoring ingredients.


• Salt substitutes. Products containing little or no sodium.


There is so much to salt that we take for granted. In addition to flavoring and preserving our foods, salt can be used around the house, in the garden, help ease a sore throat and soak sore feet. It’s more than just a needed element or a condiment. It’s life and according to James Beard, “Where would we be without salt?”


My Favorite Brisket Rub


1-5 lb. Beef brisket
1/2 tsp. Natural liquid smoke flavoring
1 tsp. Salt
1/2 tsp. Paprika
1/2 tsp. Garlic powder
1/2 tsp. Dry mustard
1 can Beer or 12 ounces red wine


Preheat oven to 325 degrees. In a small bowl, combine spices and salt. Place brisket on a large cutting board (can trim excess fat at this point or leave for more flavor); rub with smoke flavoring. Rub with spice mixture. Place fat side up in pan on rack, add beer or wine, cover and bake until brisket is fork-tender. Remove rack. Pull meat apart in pan juices, shredding coarsely. Serve with barbecue sauce, warm juices on rolls or bread. Serves 6-8

Cooking, condiments, salt
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